TheTrustedMechanic

@[email protected] - Make sure your battery tester has a printer. It seems so stupid but I have found that customers are far more likely to believe a piece of paper than they will their trusted auto repair professional. I have a like my Midtronics MDX-350P (printer). I bought a Snap-On (Midtronics) tester with a better, more graphic printout but I can't remember the model number.

I use AllData Manage Elite local installation (NO cloud based anything) and it will integrate with two of the three major local parts sources I use (NEVER AutoZone) but recently it stopped allowing me to do electronic ordering. I can look up parts, add to the invoice and check stock but it returns an error when I try to order. However my main parts catalog is NAPA ProLink. It is the hands down BEST online catalog and has been the benchmark for years. I do have to manually transfer prices, part numbers and description but splitting the screen to have both Manage and ProLink side by side makes it just a minor inconvenience. Because there is nearly zero support or updates for disc based Manage Elite I am seriously looking into a different shop management program. Only this time it will interface with ProLink.

I joined the NAPA AutoCare Center program as soon after opening my shop as I could. There is an annual membership cost but the quarterly volume rebates usually more than pays it back. Add to that the Nationwide Peace of Mind warranty that is recognized as the gold standard and you have real value for your customers. The local shop reimbursement program pays 75% of the labor guide at your current shop labor rate up to $250.00. It's not great, but it's better than nothing. Meanwhile I refuse to utilize anything from Advance Auto Parts because of their "Warranty" reimbursement, which was a joke at best. Meanwhile, my experience with the labor warranty reimbursement from my local independent parts suppliers is like yours. Wait for months, then get denied because it's "never" the part's fault. Or like the last name brand fuel pump installed in a P30 van there was only one labor guide time and then it was for a van with an access panel in the floor. The labor time to remove the tank was more than to replace the fuel tank. And guess what the parts manufacturer wanted to pay? With NAPA it's no problem. Well, almost. I have had only one, a clutch and the labor time was something like 4.5 hours. My first call was answered by someone who was either new or didn't want to be bothered. He flat out denied the claim because the labor amount was above their limit. I called back and asked for a supervisor. He wanted to find a solution. He told me that they had the $250 limit, that 75% of the labor rate I was requesting was something like $272. If I was willing to accept the $250 he'd approve it without a problem but that was all he could do. Well $250 was a lot better than $0 so I agreed and thanked him for trying to find a solution instead of simply saying "no" like the first guy. Add to that, Sonsio, the company that administers the NAPA Peace of Mind Warranty also administers the CarQuest warranty as well as Federated and other warranties. Since none of those brands have a presence in my area, when they have a nationwide warranty claim, Sonsio calls my shop to ask if I will help, which I always say yes to. But like Joe said, make sure your profit margins are sufficient to absorb the costs of the inevitable warranty claims. No matter what supplier, no matter how skilled your technicians are, mistakes happen, defects slip through, that is why there is warranty.

As a consumer, the more ways a proprietor puts in place to escape their warranty the less that business builds value or credibility. If I was at the front counter of a shop that said "We warrant our work and parts for 12 months only unless you actually drive your car," I would not go back and I don't believe that shop would retain a good reputation. If my shop suffered an excessive number of warranty repairs I would no longer be LYING to my customers by telling them I was using quality parts. I would not put the liability or responsibility on them for the poor quality of parts that my shop was choosing. Now I do offer economy parts and I do make the customer aware that they are not of the quality I prefer but as a cost concern option they are available . I cut my 24 month/24,000 mile warranty for economy grade parts down to 12/12 at most and that is disclosed at the time of offer, not at pick up. I also don't go to lengths to blame others and pretend it is the customer's fault because they don't want the cost of the original equipment part, which in my area are only covered from the dealer with a 12 month or 12,000 mile warranty. And they are very strict about not only the time/mileage limitation but also actually warranting the part, because, well you know original equipment parts don't have defects. Bottom line, my warranty is 24 month, 24,000 miles to the original owner family, subject to the part manufacturer's warranty stipulations. As a NAPA AutoCare Center those conditions are pretty simple, the warranty does not cover accidental or external damage, modifications, installation in applications not listed in the application catalog or incidental or consequential damage, pretty typical warranty conditions. As for commercial applications, most parts do not have an exclusion or reduction. In short, the warranty conditions and application seek to be as customer friendly and accommodating as possible.

My thoughts too. About the only thing that concerns me is the cost for the equipment to service the increasing complex technology. For an example, just look at the glass companies and how complex just replacing a windshield has become. We all know the expense of new equipment and how often the manufacturers like to change their scan tools. I think it will get to the point where small general service shops, such as in rural areas, small towns and tech turned shop owners will struggle to be properly equipped. Make no mistake about it, much of this specialized service technology versus generic standardized technology is intended to do only one thing, FORCE consumers back to the dealerships. In smartphone operating systems we have basically two, CRapple iOS and (You have NO privacy) Android, with PCs we basically have Windows and CRapple iOS and (You have NO privacy) Chrome. But with only a few choices most software has a version for both and it's relatively cheap to set up shop to develop software programs in each. But in our profession we have as many different "operating systems" as we have manufacturers, which is far more than three.

I am the only employee and own my own embroidered uniforms. The only drawback I can think of with a small operation owning their own uniforms is the size/name issues if you don't have loyal long term employees. But if you have a washer and dryer on site, the time required is pretty minimal since once you load the washer it's pretty much on its own until it's done. If you don't pull the uniforms out and throw them in the dryer until the next morning, who cares? The biggest time suck I find is pretreating the stains. I am NOT recommending nor not recommending, but I have the Red Kap Downshifter shirts, both long and short sleeve. But now they call them "Motorsports" shirts. Mine are red and black. I find that the red portion of the sleeves will get stains and if not pretreated they will look dirty and grungy in a short period of time. But a high quality detergent, a stain fighter in the wash and a pretreatment stain fighter and they come out nice and bright. The seller's website gave care instructions to HANG DRY, do NOT tumble dry or any stain will be set and can't be rewashed with more attention to the stain. So that's a pain the butt. However, even as a small shop it's possible and economical to have your own uniforms and wash them yourself. I happen to do mine at home but again, I'm the only employee. I have heard of shops making their employees wash their own uniforms at home but giving them a stipend. The only problem I see with that is if they don't use a high quality detergent or pretreat them, you will be replacing them more frequently than necessary simply to keep your image clean and professional.

If I understand you right, you are asking IF high school auto shop classes are still important because of the advances and innovations in the automotive industries. IF the classes are teaching students the skills and knowledge that the auto repair industry needs. Estoy usando un servicio de traducción, no hablo o Leo español muy bien. Si te entiendo correctamente, estás preguntando si las clases de taller de auto de la escuela secundaria siguen siendo importantes debido a los avances e innovaciones en las industrias automotrices. Si las clases están enseñando a los estudiantes las habilidades y conocimientos que la industria de reparación de automóviles necesita. I believe the value and quality of high school education classes for automotive techs is and will be directly connected to how involved we as an industry are with the curriculum and how well the classes are funded. In years past, at least into the 1980's auto shop classes were where the "dumb" kids were dumped. I mean how hard is it to pull bolts and change an alternator, right? Well today, it can be a major project and the electrical testing to verify it's the alternator and not the PCM is not simple, it only seems that way to experienced techs. But a professional grade scanner is required for proper diagnosis. And those scanners are not cheap. The auto shop class MUST have the resources (money) to invest in modern equipment and updates in order to properly train the students and render value and relevance to our industry. That requires tax money and we know how people "think" we are taxed enough already. (that is another discussion for another time) If we continue with OUR ignorance of thinking our taxes are too high and expecting the government to do all of these things for us with less and less revenue (relative to the actual increasing costs of everything) we will never see the value that the government COULD provide much less have auto shop classes that are properly equipped to teach and train our future employees. How valuable is a student leaving an auto shop class that only had a red brick scanner? Incapable of teaching bidirectional controls on a late model car? Any capable, competent full function scanner-only tool will cost around $3000 (or more) plus periodic updates, that is $3000 TAXPAYER dollars. If we as an industry get involved, have a voice, are paid attention to and PAY for the value we expect then high school auto shop classes can have great value. The students almost certainly will NOT come out fully capable to start work unsupervised, but at least we won't have to teach them to push a wrench with an open hand instead of wrapped around the tool to smash their fingers when it breaks loose or to start all bolts before tightening the first one. When we ask them to install a vacuum gauge or a cooling system pressure tester they will know how to do it. When we teach them, as we would even with a technical school (college) graduate the high school auto shop graduate will at least have an understanding and know what they are looking at when they learn something new. For instance, when we teach them voltage drop they will know and understand how the meter works and what we are testing, maybe not WHY we are testing this way. If we think that high school auto shop classes have no value or are "for the dumb kids" then we are selling ourselves short too. Just as we sell our customers, VALUE is not a cheap price, it is the benefit you get from the money you spend. To get true value out of our schools, not just auto shop class, we MUST spend money, we MUST invest resources including our time. If we put into it what we want to get out of it, we will see value in high school auto shop classes. But if we ignore the teacher, the curriculum, the students and the school, we will see and realize only failure. Now don't get me wrong, I don't mean give the school a blank check or quit your job and become a teacher or spend every day bugging the teacher, but be available to offer guidance, to give unsolicited suggestions and yes, to pay taxes to support the school that you and I and all Auto Shop Owners members benefit from the students that are educated there. What I mean is like in your business, you invest in tools and equipment that you think will grow your business, increase your revenue (and hopefully profits) and the same goes for the school, INVEST in the students so they can be of value to your business, even if it's only as an educated, income earning customer. If you don't see a value or benefit from the high school auto shop classes, if you haven't been involved, then you are part of the problem and could be part of the solution. If you don't see a value or benefit from the high school auto shop classes and you have been involved, then maybe it's time to ask for advice from fellow colleagues on how to try and change the curriculum, approach the board or change the board so they are responsive to the needs of the industry their classes are supposed to be benefiting. And of course coach the board how to spend the money they have for auto shop class tools and equipment more efficiently to gain the most value from it, just like you do in your own business. The underlying theme, if you haven't guessed, is industry involvement, as a resource for not only knowledge, guidance, finances and emerging trends/needs. I know I touched the third rail here so if anyone disagrees with me, please make your replies IN CONTEXT and well explained so we can understand your viewpoint and its foundation and maybe engage in more than a "witty one liner" discussion. Thank you.

When I first opened I was willing to spend the time to research parts, labor and work required and call back with a price. I spent a lot of time for very little return. But there was some return. Then I read advice that a shop should never give a price over the phone but instead encourage the caller to bring the vehicle in for an inspection. So I stopped giving prices over the phone, even for the exact job I had just completed for a different customer. I booked exactly ZERO appointments/inspections. Then I decided to take a new approach, to research the required work, the parts and labor and then call the potential customer and talk with them. In the first call I would almost always ask them if they had had the vehicle inspected already. I know that I can trust the diagnosis of most of the shops in my area. We really don't have any incompetent or dishonest shops anymore. But by talking to and LISTENING then EDUCATING them about what the repair, the PROPER repair I have closed many jobs. What I do is answer Joe's complaint and example of the timing belt, explaining to them the difference between doing the job and doing the complete job and why it is in their best interest to do the complete job instead of the minimum job. And then like newport5 wrote about the customer multiplying their costs with inspection charge on top of inspection charge. I have very often heard from people that called for prices that I treated in this way that I was NOT the cheapest but because I took the time to explain to them the process and why they should do what they should do, I made them feel like I cared and at that point price didn't really matter. What mattered is I built trust with them by actually doing what they asked, see beyond the question they asked, "How much" and answering, "What needs to be done, why does it need to be done, what does it cost, why does it cost that and what are my options?" The customer who calls and asks for a price is RARELY just asking for a price. They just don't really know how to ask what they really want to know. By refusing to engage with them and giving them a price, we are dismissing them and disrespecting them. Why should they trust us then? And like in original post, the dentist would likely not give you a price over the phone, but they wouldn't just say, "Come in, pay us for an office visit and some x-rays and then we will tell you hos much it will cost you." What they will probably do is ask a few questions, talk to you and have a better idea what they need to plan for when they offer to set an appointment for you. You educate them, they educate you and then you both can work together to meet your, the customer's needs.

There is no excuse for any repair shop in Michigan to operate without licensed mechanics. Sure some of the certification areas require retesting but the mechanic certification is only $20 per year. There is no reason that a mechanic can't maintain their certification if they are competent and worth being employed. The shops were willfully not in compliance. I am glad they were shut down.

It has been a couple decades since I have had any experience with Cintas. I have had my business for 14 years and the previous three employers that had used Cintas all dropped them for the same reason, service failures, poor quality and even worse customer service. They solicited my business to use them and when they told me it was a minimum 5 year contract I told them that was all I needed to hear and we were finished talking. They of course wouldn't take "No," for an answer and tried to "give" me stuff but it really wasn't truly free. I currently own and launder my own uniforms but should I decide to go back to a laundry service I can guarantee you, based on my previous experience, I would NEVER consider Cintas, especially not under a long term contract.

Hello Matthew, You do know that in order for any business to survive that they MUST attract new customers, right? No matter what business you are in you will lose customers to attrition, whether it's by death, or moving or they become mad at you for some reason. So the appearance that we should avoid marketing to new customers is ludicrous. We MUST attract new customers whether it is when we are first starting and growing or to maintain our customer base to remain in business.

I think the problem Robert was asking about and everyone else is having in maybe a breakdown in translation. Could you please give us more information about what you are asking about? No matter the language barrier we will try to help you if we can. We just can't with the posts so far.

I will tell you a couple stories about working “for” or “with” dealerships so hopefully you can avoid the hits to your reputation. A friend of mine worked for a shop that did pre-purchase inspections for a local buy-here pay-here car lot. The car lot would arrange the “inspection” for the customer. The reason why they did this was that way the car lot was the customer, not the car buyer and could dictate what kind of inspection was performed. The techs and shop could NOT find, report or write up anything that was not on the car lot’s inspection sheet. Water pump dripping coolant? That’s not on the sheet so the buyer wasn’t told about it. When the buyer owns the car and finds the coolant puddle in their driveway, “But you just inspected the van before I bought it. How couldn’t you see that leaking water pump?” And then the shop is bad mouthed to all of their friends about how they were too incompetent to properly inspect the vehicle. I have had numerous car lots, including this one contact me about being their “referred shop” for customer pre-purchase inspections. Every single one is told, “That’s great, I’d be happy to do it. I’ll be happy to buy you lunch for each referral. But MY customer is going to be the buyer. I will be working for them.” Not a single car lot has referred any buyers to me. They know from my “elevator speech” that I won’t cover for them, I won’t ignore a problem and not tell the buyer. And a different angle, I used to work for a shop that did all of the used car inspections and repairs for a huge local car dealer. I only did those inspections for a few weeks because I got so frustrated with doing an inspection, reporting the results and having the SAFETY items ignored because, “It won’t kill the sale from the driver seat.” The boss stopped giving me the inspections because he didn't want to deal with my protests. Another famous line when I would recommend quality parts was, “It only has to last 30 days.” The shop was willing to be the patsy for the car dealer. A customer bought a car, thinking it was fully inspected and repaired, inevitably a problem arose and the customer returned to the dealer. The dealer sent them to us and were told that they bought the car as is or the favorite was the customer bought the extended warranty but were told the warranty didn’t start for 30 days. So they would leave their car until the 31st day so they could get the warranty to pay for the transmission or the head gaskets ot whatever expensive repair was required on this "fully inspected" vehicle. This shop got a very bad reputation as sleaze balls because they supported and defended and played along with the dealership’s games. Used parts, economy parts, corners cut, even SES lights broken instead of the cause diagnosed and fixed. It’s all stuff even “The good” dealers will sometimes ask you to do. So be careful relying on dealerships. Make them aware that you will not lower your standards and do shoddy work. Economy grade parts are one thing, but deceptive practices and actual illegal (breaking the SES bulb) steps can be requested. Another instance from this very same dealership, a customer of mine called me, his girlfriend had just bought a used Durango with the Service 4WD light on. Most of us know what the cause was but I digress. He said he didn’t trust the dealership when they said they would “Take care of the light” so he wanted me to check it out and tell him what was wrong. “I know I will have to pay you for what they are going to do for free. But I want to know what is wrong, not what they want to tell me is wrong, so it’s worth it.” I had it confirmed and an estimate written in less than 45 minutes. It needed a T-case control module. The dealership didn’t like the $900 estimate so they sent it to “Their shop.” THREE Weeks later “their shop” had it diagnosed. Seriously, it was three weeks. The dealership “fixed” the light by cutting the bulb off of the IPC circuit board. That is the kind of stuff you can run into when you work for the dealership. Good luck and take care. Your reputation, long term isn’t worth the hits it will take now if you start down that path of unscrupulous, incomplete, low quality repairs that most dealerships want because, “It only has to last 30 days” or whatever the return period might be.

I am a customer of Matthew's and I agree with what he wrote. But i don't think it is what you're looking for. You need/want more immediate action. When I first opened I sought marketing help from my local SCORE group and got the same advice, "Market to your customer base." But what they don't consider or pay attention to is, WHAT CUSTOMER BASE? At that time, I have a whole 50 names. A great way to waste a bunch of money. Unfortunately for you, right now you are basically going to be marketing to "cold lists" as in the people do not know you, they have no reason to like you and they certainly don't trust you. Not because they shouldn't but because you're just another one of those businesses that are sending them junk mail or droning on the radio. You have to break through the noise. I am NOT advocating radio, but if you ever plan to advertise on the radio I suggest you record what station your customers have playing on their radio. If you want more customers like them, chances are the new customers will like those stations too. Be VERY careful of mass mailings such as Mudlick Mail, (or promos like Groupon) because if they get you the response they promise, you can get overwhelmed before you can get spooled up. For example, if you can handle 5 cars a day and you have 6 people calling, by the end of the week, you will have turned away 20% of your potential customers. Those are leads you paid to get and then lost. All that potential business is great until you figure how turning those people away is costing. Eventually it will be your existing customers you are turning away. I can't exactly offer you suggestions of WHAT to do, but I can tell you what I have found did NOT work. Never do those "new mover" programs. In my experience the people they attract are NOT truly new residents, they are most often just moving around town and I had several give the certificates to friends or family. Others came in just for the oil change, you know, it's free. And they "know a guy" or they are a "mechanic" too. I tried two different new mover schemes and got nothing in return, except a bunch of free oil change giveaways. There are many different ideas regarding heavily discounted oil changes, but like with most other "menu" items, you need volume. Advertise a super cheap oil change and you will get super cheap customers. Now if you are like one member who commented alot on "$18.98 oil changes," IF, and that's a BIG if, you can do enough volume like with a full staff of line techs and one lube tech, then all those cheap customers will be offset by the good jobs that you will get. Say, if you have the 80/20 rule and you "lose" $15 on each oil change, okay. Because out of, let's say 50 oil changes a week, 40 will be oil changes only, but you have "lost" $750 on those oil changes. But for the 10 good jobs you got from them, at say an average $350 R.O. that means you have $3500 in gross revenue. If you can't pull more than $750 in gross profit from $3500, then you need to close up shop and find work elsewhere. But if you are like me, the only tech in the shop, you aren't going to be doing 50 oil changes a week and still have time for extra work. For some reason, the lower the volume of something like the cheap oil change the lower the return becomes, more like 95/5 or 99/1. And as Matthew, as well as most marketing coaches will tell you, TRACK EVERYTHING. That way you can prove what works and what doesn't work. Matthew cajoled me into tracking and I can tell you, what I thought wasn't working because of the feeling I had, was actually working. I also proved to Matthew that the coupon book I was advertising in when I started with him was actually returning a good ROI. And then when it wasn't, I was able to show the coupon book publisher the cold hard facts. I had advertised in the coupon book from my 3rd month in business and felt a loyalty to it. But when my ROI dropped in half one year from the previous and then dropped in half again and then went negative, it was a no brainer, the coupon book had to go. TRACK EVERYTHING. I found that when I advertise in multiple forms, if I alter the offer (I use a standard $$ amount over a certain minimum RO) I can look back at my shop management report and see what offer was from where based on the offer. For example, if you do ValPak (are they still around? I would NOT recommend it) and you send an offer to your customer base. Make the two offers slightly different. That way you can look back later at an aggregate report instead of having to track each RO individually. Like for me, I look at my report and sort it by the discount total. If the discount is $25 I know it's from one offer, if it's $25.18 I know it's from a different offer. If you want to do a specific offer, like A/C Recharge, discount from regular price. That way you build a value that they are getting a discount off of instead of building a sense in your customer's mind that your work is worth less. So, say your regular price is $149 and your offer is $119, that's $30. To be able to track it from say the radio, your customer database and an "Every Door Direct" mailing, make your customer only offer $119, the radio $119.50 and the EDD mailer $119.75. At a glance of your aggregate RO report you can see how many $30 discounts you have (your customers), how many $29.50 discounts (radio response) and $29.25 (EDD mailers). If your invoicing program will export to Excel you can set up multiple spreadsheets to track and compare a lot of different aspects. I'm sorry I can't offer you advice on what to do to build your customer base quickly, but I hope I have given you good advice on what NOT to do, to avoid wasting your money. One last thing, NEVER underestimate the value and power of doughnuts. Or pizza. Or lunch. I have a couple oil change places that are great referral sources. Just make sure you don't undercut them on the work they do. Like, if they charge $34 for a base oil change, don't advertise yours at $32. You are not trying to take business away from them. Determine which ones are closest to you, research the ones that are most likely to refer customers, chain places owned by large corporations may not be good sources. Take them lunch a couple times and ask if you can leave business cards. You would be amazed at how the promise of pizza will keep you on the tip of their tongues. Just make sure they follow one simple rule, DO NOT push your shop to every customer who needs repairs. Ask them to offer your cards to any customer who asks for a referral. You would not want them recommending your competitor to your customers who get their oil changed at the drive thru oil change place. But if the customer does not have a regular mechanic, BINGO, they're golden for the referral. I used to send pizza, but that can upset the managers or the employees who aren't working that day. Hot pizza shows up, everybody wants to stop and grab a slice, or compete for the best toppings. That means either some employees get stuck with just pepperoni instead of the ham and mushroom they wanted or they have to eat cold pizza later. It's more expensive but I give gift cards to nearby eateries. That way everyone gets a reward and they can use it when it's convenient to them. Or if there are specialty shops nearby, like I had a brake and front end shop, talk to them. Then NEVER ever try to poach their customer. Do NOT ask the referred customer for work that the other shop would do. It's called respect. If you want more air conditioning work, try talking to body shops. Most will have the A/C RRR machines, but you never know until you ask. Good luck.

That's interesting that you discern that there is a difference between the two. I have always thought that there are 3 distinct types of people that we deal with in business, consumers, customers and clients. Yeah, yeah, they are all nice and some are warm and fuzzy terms but I define them as follows Consumer - In auto repair the consumer is the person with the broken car. They will never see the value in what we do or think that our prices are fair. They barely even trust us, if they do at all. Remember, they have a broken car and it has to be fixed. They think that it could have been fixed for less money and less work that what we say. They pay what they have to, nothing more and always want the price to be less but not the quality they demand. They are called the consumer because they will consume you if you let them. They will consume your time, your talent, your goodwill and your coffee. They will never truly be happy and never be loyal, if a cheaper alternative comes along, they will go there. If you did something wrong or made a mistake, they will tell everyone. If you did everything right, they will tell no one. Customer - Our customers are like consumers, they have a broken car and need it fixed. But where they differ is they are willing to pay what they have to in order to have their car fixed. They are happy that the money they spent got them a car that is safe and reliable again. They will probably let you correct any mistake that was made and give you credit for "making it right." They likely won't bad mouth you for the mistake. They are the majority of the people who buy our services. They have a need, we serve that need, they are willing to pay us a fair price, they believe they got a good value for that price, but that's as far as our relationship with the customer will ever go. Their trust, if it exists at all is very tenuous and fleeting. Not low enough to go away based on that alone but not enough to be steadfastly loyal. They will come back if it's convenient and we did nothing wrong. But if they think they know what they need and a flashy coupon or jazzy radio ad pops up for another shop, they are tempted to try the other shop. Client - Or also Advocate. This is the customer who knows you, likes you, trusts you. If you make a mistake the client believes it was an accident and will let you make it right and still extol your virtues to anyone who will listen. The client is the one who drops off the keys and says, "Just fix it." And you know you can do whatever you need to do and they will pay the bill without question. The Client, or "Advocate" will tell others and sometimes even cajole friends and co-workers to get them to use you because the client believes that you are the most honest and trustworthy shop in town and that none other should exist. They don't care if you aren't the cheapest because they know that value is not a cheap price. It is peace of mind, reliability, honesty and yes a properly repaired automobile. They are happy to pay your prices because they believe that they got more than they paid for, peace of mind. This is probably the rarest person we serve but the one who makes it all worthwhile. And a little scared sometimes. Because we know the value of that trust and we are terrified of doing something wrong and losing it. We are afraid of disappointing this person more than any other. They know that, that is why they trust us. At least that is how I categorize and clumsily define those who utilize our services. Consumers you treat right because that's the proper and ethical thing to do. Customers you take care of because they deserve it and appreciate what you did for them. Clients you treasure and pamper with perks and "little things" like that license plate bulb that was out but you replaced it for free.

I found that funny too. Here we just expect that will be the case. Maybe not in Mumbai? I especially liked the "FLOWERY CHECK' The FLOWERY Check acts as an early warning system, and if done correctly, will point out any faults with your car which can lead to it breaking down, or which can put you in danger. Perform the check at least once a week, and before any long journey. Fuel - check that you have enough fuel for your journey, or at least to get you to a petrol station. Lights - check all lights, indicators and brake lights are working. Water - check the levels of your engine coolant and windscreen washer fluid. Electrics - check all electrical features: horn, wipers etc Rubber - check the tyres are fit for purpose, and that they are at the correct pressure. Check the wipers blades too. Yourself - make sure you are fit to drive, that you aren't tired or under the influence of drink, drugs or medicines.

I think this is a case of understanding your market. If this is the type of customer you have and know this is their normal cultural behavior then you have to embrace it if you want to have them as customers. If you were operating a grocery store, would you not stock items that your customers wanted from their culture or would you make them buy what you wanted to sell? Let's not put them down or call names or demean them, not that anyone has so far, but if this is the way your customers have grown up interacting with merchants then perhaps this is the way you will have to do business with them. I am hesitant to "jack up the price" and then discount it less than the increase because this feels dishonest to me. The “handling fee” is just a polite way of labeling overcharging the customer. I would be uncomfortable with negotiating individually and granting different amounts. If Rakesh gets a brake job and you discount him 10% and then Anoop gets a similar brake job and you discount him 18% and they talk, do you think you will be the good guy? Will Rakesh regard Anoop as the better negotiator and think, “Oh, well, I’ll have to try harder next time?” I see your four options and the disparate application two ways, You are being flexible and using whichever "tool" is right for the job. But who is the arbiter of which is the “right tool,” and when? or You don't have any guidelines and your front office staff has little direction or guidance which can make the situation worse. Even if are the owner and the front office staff, you still have to have rules for you to have to follow. Otherwise it’s just chaos. The way I would handle this is to determine what the customer demographic is. If your customer base is predominantly from India then perhaps just raise your parts markup and labor rate and then "negotiate" down from there. You can have a target range that works for your customers, say 10-15%. If you start at 10% and Nikita balks you can be the “good guy” and offer her 15%. Then the question comes in, what do you charge your non-Indian customers, the same higher rate? Do you “automatically” give them a discount to return them to the prior pricing level? Where I see this as fraught, not just wrong, but WRONG is that you treat different customers differently for no other reason than their ethnicity. I understand that you are only reacting to their cultural ideas and behaviors so that is something that you will have to reconcile yourself. But I think, if this is the way your customer base is and no amount of “standing firm” will change that, so then you will have to decide what rules you are going to implement, stand by them hard and explain them to your front office staff. Do not discuss your negotiating with other customers, that helps sow division, but establish a framework and guidelines and stick to them. I have a customer who always wants to dicker. Just one, but I created a customer profile in my shop management program and apply it to him. It has a higher labor rate and that gives me room to “negotiate” with him and still keep my margins. I watch carefully and make sure he isn’t overpaying too much. What I mean by too much is more than a few dollars. He always wants to knock the price down to a “round number.” Like an estimate that’s $435, “We can do that for $400, right?” Or a $289 job, “That’s $250, right?” Well, under normal pricing that $435 job would be around $395-$410, so sure. That $289 would be say, $265-$280 so I will tell him no, I’ll do it for $275 or $270, depending. Sometimes the “negotiated” price is a couple bucks more, sometimes it’s $5-$6 less. But he’s a good customer otherwise so I’m happy. He’s happy because he thinks he’s getting a deal. So what if he pays $650 instead of $653.37 like a “normal” customer would? Same with your customers. Determine what they ultimately want in pricing, develop hard and fast guidelines and stick to them. And of course, do all of your negotiating like you are now, in private away from other customers. You will avoid resentment that way. Of course you might have to evolve if your first set of guidelines aren't working. Maybe instead of saying you'd give them 10% you tell them a dollar figure that is basically 10% off. Like the undiscovered price is $387.51 and you offer them $350. They won't see the 10% and try to get a higher discount %, they will see almost $40 off and see the deal. In any regard, I would know the numbers before you start your negotiations, know what you have to charge to make your margins, know 10%, 15% or whatever your numbers are. They will feel good, they negotiated, you will know you are still making your margins and everyone will be happy. Maybe, maybe not. Good luck, I really would not want to be in your shoes.

Okay, and like so many others with those fancy buzzwords, the one thing that no one seems to be able to do, except maybe Matthew, is tell us "How." You tell us what you think we need to do, but you provide no specifics of how or even better yet, why. Long on vague concepts, SHORT on specific ideas or even explanations.

Just out of curiosity, why do you give your services away? From your admitted prices you are only making about $140 gross on a brake job that costs you at least $80 for parts. Are you using a really big hammer to beat the brake pads into the brackets instead of cleaning the rust? Do you clean the hubs and measure lateral runout or do you just throw on new rotors and call it good? I don't mean to be a rectal unit but a proper brake job, performed properly takes time and costs money. In other words the right job done the right way isn't fast or cheap but it is a long term value over a poorly performed cheap brake job. What I can never understand is why we as a profession treat something as serious as brakes like a loss leader. First we GIVE AWAY our time with free brake inspections and then we cut our throats with discounted (CHEAP) brake jobs. The only way a shop that advertises these cheap brake jobs makes them work out is either the cheap brake job is one that endangers every car on the road because it uses the poorest quality (Cheap) parts, isn't performed to proper standards or it's a leader and nobody gets out of the shop for the "cheap brake job." We had a shop like that in my town, $129.95 Lifetime pads. It is rumored from those who sold him parts, knew him or his employees, NOBODY got out of there for $129.95. Every car needed rotors and calipers if not more. Soon the only people going to him were those chasing the cheap price, had no money and wouldn't, no, couldn't buy the dishonest brake job. And then the rest of us ended up trying to justify our HONEST $300 brake jobs. "But 'he' will do it for $130." When in reality "he" was trying to charge them $400 for the same job except he was trying to sell stuff that it didn't really need. He closed up shop one Friday night and Monday morning his employees didn't know what happened when they showed up and the place was cleaned out and locked up. Why are we afraid to charge an honest price for honest work? What other profession is there that does that? Lawyers? Plumbers? Electricians? Doctors? Landscapers?

I used to use Wagner ThermoQuiets on everything they were available for with great success. Long life, quiet strong performance and low dusting and decent price. Then I started having problems with Chrysler minivans, mushy pedal, poor stopping, even after a long test drive/bedding process. Then I started having problems with the TQs on random cars & trucks. My supplier carried the Centric line and while I won't use their wheel bearings and other products I have been very happy with the Centric PosiQuiet (the "super premium") brake pads. I'm a little leery with lower price but I guess time will tell. I put them on my own car for personal experience with them. I used to use NAPA AdaptiveOne pads on my own cars and LOVED them. Then I started getting pulsation in the brakes after about a year. Now I am absolutely fanatical about proper cleaning, lubricating and installation of calipers, brackets and pad abutments as well as rotor LRO so I know the problem is not with my work. So no more NAPA AD pads either. I have had good luck so far with the NAPA SS pads. They used to squeal badly but apparently they changed the formulation and I haven't had a noise complaint in several years from the ones I used the SS pads on. But they are often 1/2 again as expensive as the PosiQuiets.

Here is a preposterous suggestion for those who have billing issues with Mitchell that they won't correct. I say it's preposterous because it involves something so many small business owners think has no use, no value and is onerous. Try utilizing the government. Yes, the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau can help. I know, you're told by your favorite radio talk show "Entertainers" that the government is evil, no good and useless. But it's really there to help in many instances and this could be one of them. I had a fight with AT&T Yellow Pages over an ad that I specifically told them I did not approve. They hounded me for a year after they published the ad that I told them I did not approve and then sent the file to a collection agency. After fighting with the collection agency where they would provide NO documentation I told them to stop calling me. They then started emailing me and sending threatening letters. I contacted the CFPB and the last correspondence I received from the law offices that were the collection agency was that they understood I wanted the to stop contacting me. Well DUH! They then sold the file to a new collection agency and the process started all over again. That is until I informed the new firm of the CFPB complaint and that unless they could provide proof where I agreed to the ad that I explicitly did not approve, then they would be reported to. So give it a try, the government will work for you, if you ask it to. Of course, in certain partisan circles it's just more fun to complain. As for the issues with Mitchell and the billing, thankfully I never fell prey to their schemes. The first and biggest red flag was having to sign a two year contract. If they demand you sign a contract that is the first indication that they will NOT be concerned with solving your problems. Why should they? You can't stop paying for the service you aren't getting.

So you admit that you are part of the problem? That the ONLY that matters is your convenience, your profit, your whims and desires? Everything for you and NOTHING for the whole? I read a great deal of selfishness in your post where you only care about you, your situation and how you benefited but you don’t understand how the places that you support are really in effect working against you, not WITH you. That is not to say that what you wrote isn’t without merit or truth. You are 100% correct, we have the demand, and the DIYer market will always be there. However, that does not mean the discount CR@P parts stores have to aggressively undermine our professionalism and ability. Do you know how the consumer sees our “diagnostic fees?” They see them as a rip-off simply because the “discount” parts houses tell them that diagnosing your problem is as simple and easy as plugging in their code reader. The guy behind the parts counter wants to feel important and capable and “diagnoses” the problem for them. Are they right sometimes, sure. But does the customer see the value in a professional diagnosis when the first 3 parts didn’t fix the problem? NO! And since they bought all those parts they don’t need, they don’t have any money to pay you to properly diagnose their problem. Many of us were DIYers before we entered the profession that is true. But the difference is, we have the ability, the skill, the knowledge and the aptitude. What about the cell-phone sales guy who does his girlfriend’s brakes but then has to hire you to fix his “repairs?” (real life example) What if he made a different mistake that caused the brakes to fail and his girlfriend plowed into your family’s car? My point is, just because anybody can do a pad slap because it’s as easy and taking the caliper bolts out and pounding the new pads into the brackets doesn’t mean they should because there is a lot more to the brake job that they don’t know or care. The difference is we took the time, the care and the pride to become capable and competent. We took the time to become “experts” in our trade. The average DIYer is taking advice from a minimum wage I think I’m a mechanic retail sales worker punching buttons behind the counter. They don’t have the knowledge or the tools or the information to do the job right. They have the advice of someone who does what they do because they can’t do what they think they do. If they were mechanics, the DIY parts sales people would BE mechanics, not computer operators looking up car parts. Now that does not mean that the guy behind the counter doesn't have a "day job" but if they were good would they need the second job? I knew a guy who worked days as a forklift mechanic and worked at AAP at night. Why? Because he was a recent trade school graduate still repaying his "company paid" tuition. In exchange for the company paying his school costs he had to work essentially as an indentured servant, >$2.00 less an hour for like 4 years. But he was a forklift mechanic, an "Industrial Material Handling Equipment Maintenance And Repair Technician," not an automotive repair technician. The DIYer stores portray their sales people as experts when they are not. And they market their “expert” service as “Free of charge” building in the consumers mind that we are not worth our professional fees. So go ahead, stab your profession in the back and support those who are actively and aggressively working to devalue what we do. That is not to say that any of us think that the “discount” parts houses shouldn’t be there, shouldn’t loan tools, shouldn’t sell parts or shouldn’t market. It is to say that they could market in a way that does not hurt their biggest customer, the independent repair market. It is to say that by refusing to buy from those who market AGAINST us you could help send the message that we are not happy with their harmful tactics and until they treat US with respect we will NOT support them. The DIY market won't go away. The DIY market isn't our customer base. So the Cr@p parts stores can market to the DIYer and not harm our reputations and degrade our customer base or devalue our professional competent services. They just chose not to. You say you buy from the place that delivers to you the fastest. Ever wonder why the slower sources don’t make you a higher priority? Could it be because you work against them not WITH them? Hopefully the long-term damage from your short sightedness doesn't come around to bite whomever you pass you shop on to. Assuming the active attempts at destruction by those who you support doesn't do you in first. I hope you can see how supporting those who work against our profession isn't professional at all. It may seem profitable in the short term but in the long run, you are only hastening our ruin.

I do have to say, you are right, there is a lot to communicate and your example, while wonderful is only valid and will only work in certain circumstances. Not always are our customers going to understand much less agree that value comes from the convenience we provide them when it comes to having their vehicles maintenance or repairs performed. I liken it to a tool. We all have our favorite tools. We all have hammers, we all have pliers, but not everything is a nail to be pounded or a spring clamp to be squeezed or an opportunity to use our favorite tools. How many different kinds of wrenches do you have? I know if you don't count SAE and Metric as two I have over 8 different kinds of wrenches. From flare nut, to combination to stubby to ratcheting, etc. They all do the same thing, right? Only each and every one does something the others don't, or they do it better. Likewise with communications. Good for you to keep learning how to communicate with your customers better. I try but I fear I am not doing enough. Ways to communicate are like tools, there are many different ones and each is better for a certain task then others. I think I pick up a sledge hammer when a 4oz. tap hammer would do better sometimes. But I'm trying to improve my selection. Thank you for giving me another "tool" in my communications toolbox.

LOVE IT!!!! I'll also have to try and remember that line and your follow-up, " It's okay to order a "have your car repaired" sometimes.